Torch X Rowan - Puppies 6 Weeks Video

Puppies are doing GREAT!  Sleeping thru the night, eating 3 meals a day, playing outside as often as possible.  They are finding that pottying outside is good and fussing when they cannot get there to do so.

Here is the latest video!

Rowan X Torch Babies 2 Weeks Old VIDEO

Rowan and Torch's babies are now 2 weeks old.

Pointers Talking Back

I discussed before how dogs listen to us. What I'm sure many of you have also noticed is that they are pretty good at making themselves clear to us, as well. Sometimes with amusing results.

One of the first things dogs learn is housebreaking. Once the message of THOU SHALT NOT DIRTY THE HOUSE is made clear, they are left with the problem of how to tell us when it's time. Many of my dogs are not particularly good at this. We have so many that we simply have them on a schedule. They go out in the morning, spend most of the afternoons outdoors, and out again at night. Anything in between would fall under the category of a "special request." So, many of them have simply never learned how to ask to go out. But, I can usually tell.

There is the pace, pace, pace around and around the room...

There is the banging one's head fruitlessly against the back door.

There is one, who shall remain nameless to protect the guilty, who was particularly difficult to housebreak. This particular pointer would just disappear.... Mysteriously, a mess would appear in my study. Apparently, MY communication of THOU SHALT NOT was interpreted as THOU SHALT NOT BE CAUGHT IN THE ACT. A nice gate into the doorway of the study solved that.... Now this dog does the pace, pace, pace between me and the door.

Our least favorite method is often used by Morgan, who is nearing 15 years of age. At her age, while she goes out before the last of us to head to bed, she often wants to go out during the night, as well. Her method of communication is panting. Nothing wakes a person up better than inadvertently inhaling death-breath while sleeping. I'm sure it's contributed to some of my recent nightmares about corpses rising from the dead. Well, she can't help it....

The next thing dogs learn is how to tell you they are hungry. I'm sure most of us feed our dogs on a pretty regular schedule. While dogs cannot tell time, their bodies can. Promptly at 6:55PM, mine begin the "Dinner dance." This is quite subtle. They know darn well that I'm not simply going to get up and feed them because they demand it, and that too much pestering is NOT going to go over well and might delay dinner altogether.

Rowan, who is NOT so subtle, will stand in the laundry room gazing at her crate and moaning in despair. Because of course, she has missed SO many meals in her life that there is always that risk...

Morgan gives us the plaintive stare. "Wasting away here!" she says, and "I'm sure you would ike me to help polish off YOUR dinner." She also will add some cha-cha with her feet, in case we aren't paying attention. Sometimes she chatters her teeth. Now THAT's a bizarre skill...

Our Z is by far the funniest. She will nudge us a few times, but not TOO many. She just wants us to KNOW she is thinking of supper. Then, to further engage our attention, she will FLING herself onto the nearest toy, bone or chew hoof and begin gnawing away fiercely, demonstrating her great appetite. This usually works pretty well. By the time we have finished laughing at her, it is now 7PM and the "between TV shows commercials" have begun and it's actually TIME to feed dogs.

We are careful to close the door to our laundry room while the dogs are eating. The hoovering and slurping noises often drown out the TV.

Another important piece of information that the pointers like to share with us is "You may pet me NOW." This is accomplished in various ways. First, the ever-popular FOOT ON THE KNEE. Ad-nauseum. Until you want to SCREAM. Z was so bad with this as a puppy that we taught her the command NO FEET.

Next is the also-popular elbow nudge. Usually performed while the intended victim is holding a hot drink. Or, in winter, a very cold drink. I'm not sure why they persist with this, as it rarely accomplishes the goal. Instead it elicits cursing and a quick exit to get some paper towels to mop up.

A more effective method of communicating the dog's desire for physical attention is the famous pointer LEAN. They will sidle up to you, turn sideways and press against your leg. This normally gets the desired result.

Now, many of my pointers are acquainted with a dear friend of mine and her husband. This husband is a huge sucker for dogs and is always good for some pats and scritches. Particularly BUTT-scritches. These are quite desireable. Now, when they greet this sweet man, they present themselves behind first. The message is very clear: "You may massage my posterior NOW."

A lot of my dogs do not really play WITH me. They play amongst themselves, they play with their toys, but they prefer their time spent with me to be either working (hunting, obedience, showing - they all LOVE these activities, not least because it gets them some valuable one-on-one time) or snuggling.

Rowan is the exception. She LOVES to play ball. Ball is best played with a friend. So I'm elected. Naturally, her method of communicating this is to present me with the ball. FOREVER. While I'm talking on the phone. While I'm raking. While I'm cooking. Whatever I'm doing, the ball magically appears and I will look up to see those eager dark eyes just BEGGING me to "Thow it! Throw it! Throw it AGAIN!"

I've been gifted with the ball in my pile of laundry while I'm sorting it. In a hole I've dug to plant flowers. In my shoe while I'm putting on its mate. And, in the bathtub.... No question what is wanted.

Clearly Rowan is one who makes herself quite clear. She's gifted at talking with us and asks a LOT of questions during training. Some have included,"Are you sure you REALLY want me to stay WAY over here?" and "What do you mean ALL THE WAY DOWN?" and "GIVE means show it to you and run away, right?"

Her mother, on the other hand, wishes me to be telepathic. She will plant herself in front of me, and gaze at me with her huge dark eyes, and make me guess. She excels at being inscrutable. I will run thru all the obvious possibilities "Wanna go out?" "Need a drink?" "Cookie?" (ok this one is a throw-away because the answer to THIS is always "Yes!" and then of course the others all chime in "Me too!" with wagging and charging to the cookie jar. ) However, I digress. Once all these options have been eliminated and cookies handed around, I will look down and there is Scarlett, telling me SOMETHING.

"What?!?" I will ask her. Blink, blink, stare. Blink, blink, stare. HA! Maybe she will want me to throw something for her to fetch! So I will toss the nearest thing: a pen, the remote, my cell phone, for her to retrieve. She will promptly return it to me, wagging just a bit, and hand it over. Sometimes this is what she wanted. Sometimes not. Blink, blink, stare. "Did you wanna sit with me?" Eureka! "Yes, thank god you finally figured THAT out," she says with a snort, and I will be severely trampled while she clambers into my recliner with me. Scarlett is NOT good at snuggling.

Most often all the pointers are saying is, "I love you." The feet on the knee, the head to the elbow, the leaning, even the unfathomable stare, it all means the same thing. They love us. They say it ALL the time. It's embarrassing. And sweet. And it makes you think about how lucky you are to share a life with a creature whose main aim in life is to tell you how much they love you. Even if it takes you fifteen minutes to figure it out!

The Rules According To Dogs

One of the key tenets of all dog training is to be completely clear at all times. Dogs only learn what we teach them. They invented "literal interpretation." So, sometimes their idea of doing what we say we want tends to incorporate a LOT of leeway into er... what THEY want.

For example, at our house, just like at YOUR house, dogs are not permitted to countersurf. Verbal reprimands such as "Hey!" and "OFF!" to "Are you insane?" and "What do you think YOU ARE DOING?" naturally end up becoming mild to intermediate physical reprimands like collar-grabbing and toe-smacking. Rowan, naturally, was one who required the more intermediate response of having her little toes whacked a few times for trying to help me cook... She got the message. I later observed her in the reflection of the french door from my chair in the living room. She was VERY CAREFULLY counter-surfing. She was on her hind legs, front feet carefully tucked in, reaching for whatever was closest. However, her toes were NOT touching my counters. Apparently, the message she got was "No feet on the counters" instead of "No dogs stealing in the kitchen." Hmmm


Her other misinterpretation involves the rule of "If you MUST beg, do so POLITELY from a distance that does not permit your DROOL to touch my lap." When we eat at the table, the dogs know NEVER to come into the room until we give them an "OK." However, we normally eat in the living room, because naturally one would not want to miss a SECOND of those Law & Order reruns. After all, we've only seen them 150 times apiece. There's probably a world record in the offing somewhere.... So, there is begging. However, the proximity rule applies.


The other night, Rowan observed that my husband had a lovely plate of fried chicken and mashed potatoes. Soon her little face was peering over his elbow beside his chair, pink tongue flicking towards his nice chicken. Up went his elbow, back went the dog. "NO!" A few minutes later, a little black face appears on the OTHER side... Nope, that wasn't clear, either.


We've had many discussions about the magical household item referred to as a TRASH CAN. I believe the dogs refer to it amongst themselves as "The Recepticle of Joy." It is a temptation that often defies all efforts. Finally we gave up and bought a metal kitchen trash can that has a step-lid and a top which is flush to the can, so the noses cannot flip it up. The day we installed our new dog-proof can, Bad Solo strolled up to it and looked it up and down. Down came the paw, up went the lid. "Cool!" she said, "It has a handle!" SIGH


Z learned her lesson about robbing the bathroom trash when I purchased a small plastic trash can with one of those lids that SPIN to allow the trash to be put in, and then settle back over the can to hide the contents. I arrived home from work one day to find used tissues strewn all over the living room. I hear Z coming down the stairs, and nearly fall down laughing. She is WEARING the trash can lid around her neck. Likely has been for some time, given her nonchalance...


Pointers are bedhogs. There is no cure. Scarlett firmly believes she should have the exact center of the bed, no matter what. Imprecations to "Get off!" or "Don't even think about it" are patently ignored. Pushing or shoving result in her taking on mass to become roughly the weight of a red giant. We got all excited one night when, finally, our demands for her to "MOVE!" resulted in her getting up. At last! Scarlett stood up, stretched, turned around 3 times and plopped back down in the same spot.

Vegas demonstrates bedhogging...


Well, she did MOVE...


Sometimes having commands that dogs misinterpret can be useful. All my dogs know the command "Kennel." This, roughly translated, means "Go thru that door." However, sometimes one gets an interesting result. Years ago we had a beagle living with us and our pointers. She had her own crate in with the others. One night, I had put the dogs out for a last potty after a long evening away from home. It was dark. It was late. I brought them in and called to the herd of pointers milling in my small laundry room, "Kennel!" And began closing doors after them as they obediently leapt into bed in their crates. One pointer remained, still milling excitedly around the room, being a goofy boy dog. "KENNEL!" I yelled, thinking only of MY bed, and the nice Sunday morning sleep-in I had to look forward to... Silly boy pointer frantically casts about for an open door (I had forgotten that I closed HIS crate because he still hadn't finished his supper). Unable to comply, he crammed his head and shoulders into the open beagle crate. With the beagle. Complaints were heard. The pointer retreated. Oops... My bad...


All in all, human to dog communcation can be tricky. One needs to try and look at it from the dog's point of view to be as clear as possible. Teaching your pointer to give hugs can result in in appropriate greetings when your grandmother comes to visit. Allowing your dog to play with an old sock can leave your hamper full of well-chewed footwear. And telling your dog to "get in the car" before you actually opened the hatch can result in him heading home with the guy parked next to you at dogshow...


Oops. My bad...

Dogshow ABC's Part II

So! You've entered a show and are eager to go and see how you will do! You have butterflies in your stomach but the dog is enjoying this game of running and baiting and you're pretty excited.

One thing not covered so far is the various classes which you might enter at a show. All dogs are divided by sex - in the classes all dogs compete against only dogs of their own sex - dogs against dogs and bitches against bitches.


Dog Show Classes:

1) Puppy classes. These are divided by age: 6-9 months, 9-12 months, and some clubs offer a 12-18 months class.

2) Novice class - this is a class for dogs who have never earned a first place ribbon. Normally this class is for dogs who are too old for puppy classes but perhaps not mature enough for the Open class.

3) American bred - this class is for dogs who were born in the United States. Again, normally this class is only used for dogs who are too old for puppy or not ready for Open. It's also a class used sometimes at Specialty shows when folks wish to enter more than one dog from a litter, but can't show them both in the same class.

4) Bred-By Exhibitor - this is a class for dogs bred and owned by the person showing them. It's a class breeders use to showcase their stock by showing the dog themselves.

5) Open - a class for dogs of all ages. Usually this class is for adults who have not yet finished their show championships.

6) Best of Breed - this class is for dogs who already have their AKC Championship. No points are awarded for this class, but the Best of Breed dog will go on to compete in the Group against dogs from other breeds.

If your dog qualifies for the puppy classes, it's useful to put them into the puppy classes. Judges will expect a fair amount of silliness from puppies and forgive it in those classes more readily than in classes which also have adults entered. Also, if your puppy is somewhat immature (as puppies often are!) this will help the judge to know why.


Getting ready for the show:

1. Naturally you will want to make sure your puppy is trained to stack (stand squarely to be examined), to be examined and to move cleanly on the lead.


2. Your puppy should have a bath and have his nails trimmed. Many people remove the whiskers from the face of their showdogs. We do not personally do this as we feel they use their whiskers in the field. Also we like them! We've never had a judge tell us that if only we had removed the whiskers they would have chosen our dog. However, it is your choice.


3. You want to bring a few things along with you to the show:

• Food for baiting the dog (whatever your dog likes - many people used cooked liver)
• Your show lead
• A chair - many shows do not provide chairs ringside so if you plan to sit and watch, you will need to bring one
• A rag and something to clean your dog should she become dirty
• A crate for your dog - you might want to leave the dog to eat lunch or watch another ring
• Water & Ice - many summer shows can be very hot and it's a good idea to bring along water and some ice so the dog doesn't become overheated. Always have a crate in your car so that you can leave the dog in the car with the windows wide open and the dog will not become overheated. Never leave your dog in the car on a hot day without everything open to the air. Be sure to check on your dog frequently to make sure she is not too hot and that she has plenty of water.
• You may wish to bring lunch with you - some of the shows have limited vendors and you might only be able to get a hot dog or rather nasty foods at some shows. Others have great vendors with wonderful snacs and meals. You just never know!
• Your judging schedule and entry that were sent from the Show Superintendent.

Arriving at the Show:
Once you've arrive, you want to be sure you have all your equipment, and possibly your lunch. You've taken a look at the judging schedule and brought along your paperwork in case it's needed.

You want to park with the exhibitor parking (if it's summer try to find a shady spot, even if you have a ways to walk). Many clubs will charge a few dollars for parking. Show venues are hard to find and often the parking fees are what makes the difference between a club being able to afford the site or not.

Check which ring you are in and take a look at the schedule. A typical ring schedule might look like this:

Ring 2

8:00 Am

Setters (English) 4-5(1-2)

Setters (Gordon) 3-1(1-3)

Pointers - 3-5 (1-1)

What this means is that there are 4 males, 5 females, then 1 male champion (in the parentheses) and 2 female champions (parentheses) for English Setters - for a total of 12 English Setters to be judged, then another 8 Gordon Setters before Pointers will be judged. If you figure about 2 minutes per dog for judging, it's likely Pointers will not be judged before 8:30 or 8:45. Because some dogs might be absent, it's a good idea not to wait too long before heading to the ring, but this is a rule of thumb to help you figure out when you will be showing.

Getting back to Pointers, you can see from the entry that there will be 3 males, then 5 females judged in the classes. The dogs numbered in the parentheses are the champion dogs competing for Best of Breed. These dogs do not compete for Championship points because they already have the necessary number and are already AKC Champions.

Arriving at Ringside:

When you arrive ringside, you will see two people in the ring; the judge and the ring steward. The steward gives out the numbers, helps the judge to keep the records and calls each class into the ring when it's time for them to be judged. You will want to get your number from the Steward. The number is listed on your entry return which came with your judging program in the mail, but it will also be listed in the show catalog, which the steward will also have ringside.

The steward might be busy giving out ribbons to the judge or recording the results of a previous class, so you might have to wait a few minutes to get your number. It's important that the result be recorded accurately, so be patient! Once you have your number, you can attach it to your arm using the rubber bands provided. It's customary to put the number on your left arm.

Competing In the Ring:

Now you will wait until the steward calls your class into the ring. Watching beforehand can help you see where the judge would like you to stack your dog, and how he or she is moving the dogs. When you are called into the ring, normally you will be placed in "catalog order" according to the numbers you have been assigned. Leave space if there is to be a dog in front of you, then stack your dog, taking your time. Rushing and acting particularly nervous will make your dog worry and she's less likely to stand quietly and more likely to fidget. Normally, the judge will take a moment to look at all the dogs stacked together as a group, then send everyone around the ring together. The first dog in line will then be examined. If your dog is fidgeting, and you are not first, it might be helpful to practice stacking the dog until it is your turn. When it is your turn to have your dog examined, stack her, taking your time. Try to move out of the judge's way as he is examining your dog, but also try to keep your dog still. If she moves, calmly put her back as she belongs. Next the judge will move your dog by herself, usually expecting the dog to free-stack (stand on her own) using bait or a toy so he can see how she looks on her own, and evaluate her expression. Then the judge will send you around the ring to the end of the line.

Once all the dogs have been examined, the judge will assign the placements. There are up to 4 placements for any given class. Whichever dog is first in her class will need to be ready to go back into the ring again.

Winning a class gains you a blue ribbon. No points are assigned for class wins. Once all the different classes are judged for a particular sex (dogs or bitches) the first place dogs from those classes will go back into the ring for what is called the Winners Class. From these first place dogs, the judge will choose his Winner for the day (Winners Dog and Winners Bitch). The "Winners" will be given championship points. How many points are given depends on how many dogs are entered. A win of 3, 4 or 5 points is considered a "Major."

In order to attain an AKC Championship, you need to earn 15 championship points, including two "Major" wins of 3, 4 or 5 points. You must earn these points under 3 different judges.

Once the Winners are chosen, that dog will leave the ring. The second place dog from the class that the Winner was in will enter the ring. From those dogs left (the other first place dogs and the second place dog from the class in which the Winner was entered) the judge will choose a Reserve Winner. No points are awarded for Reserve Winner, but in case the Winner is disqualified for any reason (entered in the wrong class, a paperwork issue, etc.) the Reserve dog will be awarded the points instead. This happens only rarely.



If you are lucky enough to be chosen as Winners Dog or Winners Bitch, you will be heading into the ring AGAIN for the Best of Breed Class. Only the "winners" will be eligible to compete in Best of Breed against the Champion dogs.


Best of Breed:

The Best of Breed class is used to determine the best pointer entered on that day. Usually this title is given to one of the dogs entered that is already a Champion, however, both the Winners Dog and the Winners Bitch are eligible for this award. No points are given for Best of Breed. In this class, the judge will also assign a Best of Opposite Sex award. This is for the dog who is best of his sex that was NOT chosen as the Best of Breed. For example, if Champion Pointer X is chosen as Best of Breed and she is female, Best of Opposite sex will be a male.

Also chosen is an award for Best of Winners. This title is awarded EITHER to Winners Dog or Winners Bitch. The purpose of this award is to give points to an outstanding animal in the case that there is a discrepancy between the points. For example, if there were a large number of bitches entered, there might be say, 3 points available to the Winners Bitch. If only 1 or 2 dogs were entered, there might only be 1 point available to Winners Dog. If the judge feels that the Winners Dog is superior to the Winners Bitch (and he may not!) he can assign Best of Winners to the dog, who then will also be awarded 3 points. The Winners Bitch does not lose her points. She will still have 3 points.


Calculating points can be confusing, and knowing when to head back into the ring can be confusing. Listen for your number and hopefully some of the other exhibitors will help you.

If you like, you can have a photograph taken with the judge at the show. Most people only get photos taken if they have won points on that day, but it is your choice. Normally you will need to wait for a break in judging and ask for the judge to pose for photos with you. A photographer will be called and you can have the photo taken at that time. You can check with the steward to see when the judge will be taking a break.

Now what?

If you've won - congratulations! Go home, tell all your friends and your breeder and have a celebratory dinner!

If not, don't despair. Learning the ropes can take time. Judge's opinions of what makes a correct pointer vary. Some judges will not choose puppies for championship points. Some judges prefer one color over another (even tho they are not supposed to!). Sometimes your dog misbehaves - they are not robots. There is always another show.

If you find that you are losing consistently, it might be helpful to talk with your breeder or other show folks to see what they think. You might need some more training. Your dog might need to put on or take off some weight. Or, your dog may have a fault that is preventing him from winning. It's a good idea to get a second opinion or two if you feel you aren't winning when you should. You might get some good advice and be able to improve your results.

Most important is that you enjoy the time with your dog. An AKC Championship is a nice title to earn and your breeder will be grateful for the help this gives their record as a breeder. However, in the end, it is still only dogshow. What matters most is that you enjoy living with your dog and spending time with her.

Dogshow ABC's - Part I

Quite a few of our puppy people have expressed interest in dog showing, but some confusion about what is involved. We thought it might be good to give a VERY basic introduction to dogshows and what is involved.

What is a dogshow?

A dog show is an event which you enter with your dog, to be judged (by a licensed AKC Judge) regarding how well your dog meets the AKC standard compared to the other dogs entered on that day. The AKC breed standard is a description of the breed and its traits, written by the national breed parent club (For example, the Pointer Standard was written by the American Pointer Club) and approved by AKC.

What is the purpose of a dogshow?

Dog shows are intended to evaluate breeding stock. Having an AKC championship means that you have acquired 15 AKC Championship points (more on this) and have been evaluate by at least 3 AKC licensed judges and deemed to be better than a number of other dogs of your same breed. A championship doesn't necessarily mean you should run out and breed your dog, but it does go a long way to proving your dog has the qualities asked for by the breed standard and that your dog has something to contribute in a positive way towards the gene pool of your particular breed.

Dogshow is also a fun activity for you and your dog, can be a nice social outing, and a good experience for your children. It can also be political, frustrating and time-consuming. But mostly it's fun!

How do I find out about Dogshows in my area?

It's a good idea to contact a local all-breed club in your area to learn more about shows around you. An all-breed club is a dog club that has members from many different breeds. These people work together in their community to educate people about dogs, often host training classes in both conformation (showing) and obedience and host and run dog shows.

Another source for shows in your area is the various Show Superintendents. These are organizations that supply equipment for shows (tents, rings, tables, ribbons, etc.) and manage the paperwork involved (keeping records and providing them to the AKC to keep track of the results at a given show.) Getting in contact with show superintendents can help you be put on their mailing list for upcoming shows.

What does my dog have to do during a show?

For conformation (the "beauty pageant" part that you see often on TV such as Westminster Kennel Club's annual show) your dog must stand squarely for the judge to look at him. He must stand quietly while he is examined all over - head, ears, body, tail, testicles for males, sometimes even his feet and legs are touched. Also the judge will need to pull back his lips and look at his teeth, so he must tolerate this. Next the judge will ask you to move your dog around the ring so he can evaluate how he moves and uses his body. Moving the dog is done at a trotting pace - this gives the judge the best view of how the dog is using himself. The judge will want to see your dog moving away from him, towards him and from the side. He might send you in various directions to be able to see this: normally away and back in a diagonal line across the ring, and then around the perimeter of the ring so he can watch the dog move from the side. Often after the dog has moved away and back to the judge, your dog will need to stop and stand squarely on his own (you can use food to teach him how to do this - it's called "baiting") so the judge can see how he stands on his own without you placing his legs and also so the judge can see his face and expression.

Your dog will need to be accustomed to moving thru a crowd, being around other dogs, hearing and seeing strange noises and sights, and being touched.

How does my dog learn all this?

Much of this can be practiced at home. YOu can teach your dog to stand, to have his mouth and head and body examined, and to move on the leash in your own house and yard. However, it's helpful to attend a "show handling" class (many all-breed clubs hold these classes) and to get out and about in general to become socialized to new people and places.

I'm interested! My dog and I know what to do, now what?

If you've trained your dog and taken some classes and have a good idea of what you will need to do in the ring, you will want to enter some "match shows." These are practice shows, run very much like a regular dogshow, except that there are no points awarded (as they are not "official AKC" shows) and the judges are often learning just like you and your dog. They help you see how your dog is doing with his show education, and help you to get some experience working with your dog in a "show" environment. Ribbons are awarded and it can be fun to see how your dog stacks up against his competition, even if it is practice!

Once you've entered a few matches, you might be ready for a show! First, your dog must be 6 months of age to enter a show. (Often matches allow puppies as young as 3 months to enter.) He should have a bath and have his nails trimmed and in general be in good condition and tidy all over. (Pointers don't require a lot of grooming so you're off the hook for a lot of the work required by other breeds like Poodles, shih tzus and other coated breeds). Since the judge will be looking at the dog, you will want a slightly lightweight show lead so as not to distract the judge from your dog. Most people dress up a bit for dogshows - business casual or slightly nicer is the rule of thumb - but it's ok to wear comfortable, safe shoes so you don't fall in the ring!

So? How do you enter? Once you've contacted some all-breed clubs or show superintendents, you should be able to get your hands on what is called a "Show Premium." This is a pamphlet that lists an upcoming show, the date, location, and who the judges will be for each breed. At the back of this pamphlet will be an entry form. You must fill out ALL of the information to enter the show, and send this form with the fee (listed on that page) to the show superintendent in charge of teh show BEFORE THE CLOSING date of the show. THis closing date is usually 2-3 weeks before the actual date of the show. The entries are needed well in advance so that the judging scheduled can be planned based on how many dogs of each breed are entered.

Usually the week before the show, you will receive in the mail a Judging Schedule which will tell you in what Ring you will be showing, what time, how many dogs are entered for each breed, and what your Show number is. The judge is not permitted to know the names of the dogs entered, so you will be given a number to put on your arm while showing your dog. You will want to be sure you have the correct number so when the results are recorded, you get credit for whatever your dog has done at the show that day.

Coming up: Part II - Attending the Show and What are all those Ribbons For???

Introducing Puppies to Birds

For those of you interesting in hunting, and for those of you interested in pursuing a Junior Hunter or field trial title with your pointer, one of the most important things you do is introducing your puppy to birds.




The first questions is, at what age is it appropriate to begin putting birds in front of your puppy? We feel that no dog is really too old, having done some beginning training with rescue pointers as old as six years, but if you have a puppy, you'll want to put birds in front of him as soon as possible. We try to at least do a few brief introductions while the pups are still with their dam - starting between 6 and 7 weeks. You may wish to wait until the pup has had most of his puppy shots before venturing anywhere that might have ticks, rodents or other germ-carrying critters. Basic introductions, however, can happen in your own backyard.


The next question is, what kind of birds? Tweety birds (robins, bluejays, chickadees and other common yard birds) do not have the same type of scent as gamebirds. Gamebirds include: quail, grouse, chukar (these look like largish pigeons) pigeons and pheasant. All of these (altho pigeons are not normally hunted, they work well for training a pointing dog) are the types of birds for which we'd like our dogs to be looking.



The best birds to introduce to puppies are quail. They are small, don't fly as far as other gamebirds, and not particularly scary or dangerous for a puppy. They also have a very good scent which is easy for a puppy to find. Pigeons and chukar would be a second choice for a puppy, being slightly larger than quail. Grouse are hard to find and very flighty, not an easy choice for puppies. Pheasant is not a good choice for a puppy as often they are bigger than the puppies and might scare them as they take off to fly away - they can be quite loud.


We always try to introduce puppies to birds along with a trained adult. Puppies spend a lot of time learning from their adult family members and housemates. The interest, enthusiasm, behavior and security of a trained adult can all contribute in a positive way to your puppies first experience. Generally, if we have an adult available, we will plant a bird (more on this) put the puppy on a leash nearby, and then bring out the adult. The adult will quickly find and point his or her bird, which we then flush (make fly). All this in view of the puppy who sees: dog using its nose, dog getting excited, dog pointing, and WAHOO! birdy fireworks as the bird flies away. If enough birds are available, it's useful to have the adult put up two or three birds to really spark his interest. At this point, we bring the puppy, still on lead, over to where the bird was, and let him investigate, encouraging him as he smells the area. If he saw the bird fly, if he smelled it before or afterward, he's already got a pretty good idea of what his little nose is telling him. Let him rummage around until he begins to lose interest.


Now, if you haven't an adult nearby who can "demonstrate" the fun and excitement of birds, you want to work a bit more carefully. It's important not to startle the pup. What we generally do is take a quail in our hands, pinning the wings, and, with the puppy on a lead, show it to him and allow him to check it out thoroughly. Often there will be some grabbing, which you may wish to gently prevent so your bird is still intact. Sometimes the puppy will show minimal interest in this fuzzy thing in your hand, after all, it's not particularly palatable and he's never seen it before. Don't worry about it. Next, at some distance from the puppy, we will tie the bird to a string, or tie the bird to an empty 2-liter soda bottle (this is just to weigh down the bird so it cannot fly far - saves on quail) and bring the puppy into an open area where the bird is. Generally the bird will run or fly at sight of your and the pup approaching. Hopefully, the puppy will give chase and show great interest. Again, if the pup shows little interest, keep trying.


Now, many pups will begin pointing at first sight or smell of any gamebird. This is not uncommon, and of course is desirable, altho we've had many dogs who chased their first few birds before ever pointing and grew to become nice hunting dogs. If the puppy is pointing from the very beginning, this is great. You can VERY QUIETLY encourage the puppy. Do not walk between the puppy and the bird. Normally the puppy will eventually break his point and head in to pounce on his quarry. (Again, you may want to prevent the puppy from doing too much damage to the bird, but there is nothing better than a proud pointer puppy, strutting about with his first bird in his mouth.) We will allow this for the first few times to build his enthusiasm.

If the pup is steadily pointing, you can slowly move towards the bird until it flushes. You may have to kick the bird, or even pick it up and toss it into the air. At this point, nearly all pups break and chase. Again, let him go for now. Let him have his fun.


Now, once you've shown the pup what a bird looks and smells like, and established his interest, it's time to begin allowing him the chance to find the birds on his own. Again, controlling the situation as we've done already will go a long way to building his enthusiasm. Making sure that he sees plenty of birds as a baby will ensure that he knows what his job is as an older pup and adult when he's turned out to hunt. Dogs who see few or no birds as pups can take much longer to build interest and will spend more time running then actively HUNTING. If you learned as a child that gold nuggets were to be found under mailboxes, you'd spend a good amount of time as an adult checking under mailboxes. If you had never heard of finding gold under mailboxes, you'd just walk right past them without a look. You might once in a great while find a nugget by chance, but you wouldn't be actively hunting for them.


So, what comes next is planting a bird or two for the puppy to find. Planting means placing the bird in some kind of cover: grass, bushes, a depression in the ground with leaves covering, whatever you can do to conceal the bird. Giving the bird a good shaking, tucking his head under his wing, all these help to settle the bird so he stays put. It's helpful to place the bird several minutes before you bring the puppy into the area. This gives the scent of the bird time to waft out from the bird itself to some of the surrounding area and help give the puppy something to follow. Dogs hunting regular gamelands with wild birds will have a trail to follow, and there is often a good deal more scent, so leaving the bird a few minutes can help the puppy have more to find.


Bring the puppy (again, on a lead - the purpose of the lead is to control where the puppy goes, not so much to prevent his freedom) into the area where the bird is planted and allow him to investigate. He may not even notice the bird or its scent. Give him some time to figure it out for himself. If he's gotten very interested in field mice, digging or playing with something he finds in the brush, you can walk him in a circle around where the bird is planted (careful of flushing the bird yourself) until he notices it is there. Usually he will pass it, pause, and go back to investigate. As a last resort, you can crouch down, bringing the pup with you, and rustle the grass near the bird, even expose the bird for the pup if necessary.


Following these steps a few times for your pup as soon as you can possibly do so will usually give him a good start for hunting. He will know what a bird is, what it smells like (most game birds have a similiar scent and most dogs will easily translate what they learn on quail or chukar to any game bird including pheasant) and will be beginning to learn how to follow his nose and locate game.


You will notice that AT NO TIME was there any mention of gunfire. This is not the time for gun training. Gun training comes after the dog's interest is solidly established. This topic will be covered at a later date.



Good luck and happy hunting!


(Photos: Scarlett, Ch Corwyn's Flame JH CDX VA at 3 months pointing probably her 2nd or 3rd bird and, later, Scarlett's first litter: Corwyn's Wizard, Corwyn's Illusion and Corwyn's Mystic at 7 weeks - two pointing, one pouncing - on their first bird. This scenario in our own yard. Notice the bird is on a string)

Our First Showdog

So, we wanted a pointer. We found a nice breeder in Massachusetts (Taunton Bay Pointers) and they casually mention that she is show quality.

We really have no idea what this means. We just know that Morgan's pretty, we love her, and Tammy wants to spend as much time with her dog as possible.

So, we do what all new people should do:

• We register her with AKC
• We contact our local all-breed club (there are lists of these on the AKC website)
• We sign up for show handling classes

This goes pretty well, except we don't really understand what "socializing" means. Our dog loves us and our family, and is really not happy with people she DOESN'T know. Fortunately, our handling instructor is a genius. She encourages us. She sends us to obedience classes to build confidence. Our dog begins to learn about the world and about showing. She becomes outgoing and learns how to work on the lead, and how to stand for examination. She learns to let people touch her, hold her head and look at her teeth. She learns to free-stack. She is VERY good at this. She will move all her feet to the right places and put up her cute little ears and look perfect.

By now she is about 18 months old. So, we go to a match. A practice show. She is the only pointer, so she gets a first place and a "Best of Breed" ribbon. Then she wins the sporting group! She beats all the other sporting dogs there. We are on our way, we think!

So we enter some shows. Some of the people are friendly and helpful (Thanks, Pam & John Mohr, for being kind to a newbie!) Some are reserved, and some are just rude. We ignore the rude people and have fun with our dog. We get a lot of reserve wins. We're still awkward and learning.

But finally, at a small show in New Jersey, we win! A whole two points! That's it, we are now officially hooked!

Waiting for Puppies

One of the reasons we started this blog is to help folks who are waiting for puppies. Waiting is so hard, particularly when you've DECIDED you want a puppy and from whom you'd like to get one. So, we thought this might help pass the time and keep in touch. It might also help folks by sparking questions and ideas about your upcoming addition to the family!

We will be posting updates on Rowan & Duncan and also what is going on with the other Corwyn Pointer kids. We will send out photos during pregnancy and OF COURSE puppy photos when those come!

This one is of Scarlett pregnant with Rowan's litter.

Planning for Puppies

We are planning for a litter of puppies this spring. There is quite a bit that goes into planning a litter and getting ready to have the pups.

First, you want to choose the parents. For this litter, we've chosen to breed our dam to one of our own stud dogs. Ch Corwyn's Mystic JH CD VA (these titles means she's got her AKC Show championship, her Junior Hunter title, and her Companion Dog in obedience, plus the Versatility Award title from the American Pointer club) who call call Rowan (or "The Devil!") is to be bred to Ch Corwyn's Charisma JH CDX VA "Duncan". The dogs should be chosen to complement one another in the various doggy aspects:

• Type - they should look like a pointer and hopefully contribute positively to one another in areas where one is better - example: Duncan has more bone than Rowan - we're hoping to get some of that in the pups. Rowan has a beautiful head and dark eye and we're hoping to get that.


• Temperament - They should be solid tempered, outgoing, friendly and easy to train. We at Corwyn do not breed dogs who are shy, aggressive, extremely stubborn or difficult to train.
• Health - both dogs are over 2 years old and have had the appropriate health checks that apply to our breed. Pointers are pretty healthy, but we do use OFA to check their hips - both of these dogs are OFA Good. They do not have any seizure disorders, nor do any of their relatives, and have shown no skin problems.
• Field Ability - No dog at Corwyn is bred without demonstrating field ability. After all, a pointer should be able to do his job! Both these dogs have a basic hunting title (Junior Hunter) and have been hunted over in the field by us. Rowan is a natural retriever and Duncan has been trained to retrieve as well. Rowan has a particularly good nose and both have good range but are manageable when working at a distance. We think the pups will be very birdy and not hard to train.

Now that we've made a decision about the parents, it's just a waiting game for Rowan to come into season so we can breed her... She loves puppies (that's her in the photo with her 1/2 brothers & sisters) and we hope she will be a great mom!